Back with the Massai

We assembled early on Thursday, knowing the journey would be long and we had a full day’s work ahead. En route we were stopped by the police and ushered into a lay-by along with all the other traffic. We waited for an interminable time, finally discovering that the ex-president (think Gordon Brown [who?] not David Cameron) was to pass. At one point I wondered if they were going to hand out flags to wave – this is a long, busy road between Moshi and Arusha and everything was being stopped, surely this was a major event? Finally, a jeep with blaring headlights and a persistent horn came sweeping past, closely followed by 4 speeding, gleaming white vehicles and a couple more jeeps. Then they were gone. I wondered if this is how the ex-P and his wife go shopping at the weekend?

We continued on into Massai country. It endures as a completely beautiful area, the greens showing strongly as they had been washed of dust by recent rain. This Thursday there was a big demand for homoeopathy, so I was left on my own with Roger-the-translator. Solo working was a first for me, but when I volunteered to go that morning, I had suspected that might be the case, and it felt like it was time to face the fear of managing on my own.

Perhaps I should explain; to take a case here you need to take notes so the following person can gain a quick over view as well as see what you have been thinking. At the same time you have to repertorise , whilst concurrently observing the patient and asking questions. All this at speed.

In this picturesque spot there was a small church amongst dry grass, with a table and two stools waiting for us in the shade of the trees. I sat down and soon realised that I couldn’t see the computer screen – a quick change of shirt gave less reflection from me, but the light remained overly bright so we moved to a ramshackle wooden church nearby, the main church being locked. There were very basic benches and a good 4cm of dust on the floor, but the roof kept the sun off so this was good.

This just left me to prepare Roger by letting him know that I would be slow, but I was only going to apologise about this once, feeling that I would really have no time for any more. He nobly responded that we were a team (thankyou Roger), then it was heads down and off we went until about 3 hours later when I lifted my eyes to see that good old Massai staple had arrived: chapattis and chai. We took a break and the tea was heavenly; milky (which I normally hate), sweet (ditto) and with an incredible smokey flavour. Here simple things become incredibly important, and I was almost dancing with joy at the refreshments. A quick visit to the loo (yes, a jolly little wooden hut with a door that you had to hold shut whilst batting away at the insects) and we were off again. Nineteen patients in one day including eight new ones – bit of a record for me. [In the UK I might see five people in a day, with a maximum of two new patients.]

I was back for more the next day but we had to leave early to make the return journey. This was good, despite the threat of traffic – a famous bishop had died and it was his funeral that day. In transpired that the ex-P had been to pay his respects the day before. Halfway home we found all the vehicles pulling over to the side of the road; now familiar with this behaviour we imitated them. Within a few minutes two or three jeeps with flashing lights, blaring horns etc. whizzed past, followed by countless white vehicles full of the inevitable dignitaries, then more jeeps and.... an ambulance! It was The President this time and clearly he was taking no chances with his health. I have to say I was more impressed with this macho performance; I think I fancy becoming a dignitary.

Some Massai patients - the boy has a toy donated by Sally!